Stitching with a Shimmy

Shimmying through life with needles and thread…

Archive for the ‘Threads’ Category

May 25th, 2011 by deRomilly

FiberFest Results

Yarn closeup

Isn't it pretty?!

Last weekend I went to the Carolina Fiber Fest with some friends. It has been a long time since I’ve been to one of this type of event, and I’m afraid I forgot what the wool fumes do to me. For the most part, I was good, and didn’t spend a lot of money.

Unfortunately, I volunteered to teach my friends how to spin (Note to potential friends: Romilly is an enabler… you don’t want to shop textiles with me unless you want a new hobby, or a new toy to play with an OLD hobby…) And to do that, I had to have some of the same wool they were going to be using! :)

So I came home with five ounces of colonial roving. Pretty blue, turquoise and red.  It sat in my bag until Tuesday. Tuesday I broke down.

Same yarn, different angle!

More yarn shots.

I borrowed my friend’s new spindle – both of mine had yarn on them already… got to finish that! and I wanted to play with the weight on hers in any case so I knew what she could expect… it’s light.  And two hours of work later, I have a skein of 130 yards of fingering weight singles… I may ply it later, I might not… and a little bit more. And I still have 2/3 of a bag of roving to go! I think I’m going to have a new shawl next fall. What do you think?

*I* think it’s time to dig the spinning wheel out of storage and see what I can do with it.  I originally learned to spin with the intention of spinning my own crewel wool… Maybe I’ll pull that idea back out. Drop spindles are perfect for that, because you can spin a small amount of fiber pretty easily.  I’ll keep you posted as to how that works!

June 28th, 2008 by deRomilly

This and that…

I decided Thursday on a whim to actually sign up for Sharon Boggon’s new Studio Journal course at Joggles. Since I don’t have a lot of formal art training, I’ve always felt pressured by my sketchbooks… and that I shouldn’t be. So I’m hoping this will give me a new lease on them. I know just the little bit she covered sketchbooks in the Sumptuous Surfaces class helped immensely last year.

So. First week started Friday, and I’m already psyched about this. :) YAY!! This was a good investment for my art and my business, I think.

So Friday I went out to Michaels thinking maybe I’d get a new journal. Decided to use the one I’ve already got. Got the 2 skeins of DMC I needed to finish a sampler (Spots of Fun – by  Debbie Draper). I’m doing it all in one color of variegated thread.

Anyway, while I was at Michaels, I saw these little bobbins of ribbon in the ribbon section… Ended up buying 5 of them. They’re intended for scrapbooking and paper crafts. Ummm… if you say so. I’m going to stitch with them, of course. Pictures. Click to enbiggen:

june2008threads-001.jpgjune2008threads-002.jpgjune2008threads-003.jpg

I think my favorite thread is the one in the last picture. It has what seem to be little pompoms every 3/8 inch or so. And of course it’s in blue and lavender, which though I keep trying to expand my color schemes I seem to always come back to: blue, green and lavender. Oceans. Grin.

I’ll keep y’all posted on what I’m doing with it all! If I can actually get to my studio any time soon, that is!

February 26th, 2008 by deRomilly

Ikat – er – What?!

MargB of Maggie’s Textiles left a lovely comment for me on my last post about multi-colored threads. (It’s now available in pdf format on the Needlework Articles page, by the way.)

In the comment, Marg referred to an “ikated” design, a term I’d never heard before. I knew about Indonesian ikats – the lovely pieces of weaving used for sarongs and tubular skirts, in that I knew they existed. No clue about the process of creating them, though. And I didn’t know that it was a general weaving term.

While trying to track it down, I found several lovely sites on ikats in general — from the scholarly treatise about how the different designs relate to different social groupings in the islands found on asianart.com, to page upon page of photos of beautiful weavings. (Am I a horrible cultural appropriator for wanting access to some of these to use in my art and embroidery?)

The neat links included:

In any case, “ikat” refers to the way the warp or the weft (usually the warp, sometimes both) is measured, tied off and dyed before weaving begins. Marg says she sometimes used spaced dyed yarns to simulate this type of work, and her recent blog post about it explains in greater detail, with a photo of her own work as well…

February 19th, 2008 by deRomilly

Stitching with Multi-colored threads, Part 4 (conclusion)

2001-2008 by G. Romilly Mueller (Goodfellow) all rights reserved
Please do not reprint or post on your own site or newsletters without permission. Feel free to link to this blog.

Geometric Stitching (Hardanger, etc.) Techniques

Some of the same principles apply to stitching geometric-type designs, for example, any type of satin stitch.

For the example in Figure 12 (the chart is figure 13), I used one strand of Caron Wildflowers in the Nefertiti color, with the graph to the right (each grid line represents one thread of the fabric. This design works better on a linen fabric or other evenweave than on aida.)

figure12.jpgfigure13.gif

Play around with this one. Don’t be afraid to cut colors out of your threads. In the example in Figure 11 (last post), I did just this in several places around the outside “petals”. I wanted them green, and durn it, they were going to be green! (or entirely pink, for that matter…) On the other hand, I’m generally lazy when it comes to starting and ending threads, so they aren’t entirely green!

You can get completely different looks from the same color of thread by stitching the color in a different location on the chart.

Using a different color or type of thread to stitch the design will give you a completely different effect. It’s always amazing to me the difference that stitching the same design with Tropics instead of Nefertiti creates.

Conclusion

This article is just an introduction to some of the effects you can achieve with this type of thread. Each different type of multicolored thread, whether the evenly spaced variegated floss, or the random overdyed types has its own peculiarities. In a stranded thread, each strand will have the same color changes, so if you need a mirror effect, keep this in mind if you are using a randomly dyed thread.

The more colors there are in the thread, the more bizarre the “blended thread” techniques can look. But this might be just the effect you need. Remember to keep experimenting. Even the most expensive threads are relatively inexpensive when considered individually. The amount of pleasure gained from learning their tendencies becomes worth the cost when you create a project that is truly your own.

I hope this small discussion has made you more aware of the possibilities multi-colored threads have for your stitching. Remember, when you’re stitching, you always have the last word as to how your piece looks. If you like it, it’s right!

February 17th, 2008 by deRomilly

Stitching with Multi-colored threads, Part 3

2001-2008 by G. Romilly Mueller (Goodfellow) all rights reserved
Please do not reprint or post on your own site or newsletters without permission. Feel free to link to this blog.

English Method

In the English method, which I teach below, you complete each stitch individually. The only difference from the Danish method in looks is on the back of the piece. The English method uses more thread, but creates a more durable backing to the fabric. In addition, there is some evidence that it may preserve your fabric by placing a more even tension on the threads than the Danish method. This method of stitching a cross stitch uses more floss than the Danish method.

Each cross is stitched in its entirety before you move on to the next stitch. Using this method makes the colors stand out very strongly. However, this can result in the colored piece looking “stripey”. But you might want stripey. See Figures 5 and 6. Figure 5 was stitched horizontally, in the usual manner, and Figure 6 was stitched in the basic direction of the petals, making the stripes follow the petal lines.

figure5-6.jpg

Directions

Work from the top of the petals downward in the English method as described below. You’ll notice that the wider the petals become, the thinner the stripes become. You could also work in the English method vertically on the center petal, and horizontally on the outer petals to accentuate the stripes and make them part of your design. Remember to experiment.

Working on Evenweave:

When working on an evenweave fabric like Jobelen or linen, cross stitch is generally worked over two threads of the fabric. Look closely at your fabric, and you will see that threads alternate going over and under another (Figure 7).

figure7.gif

This is a trait of an evenweave. When stitching cross stitch on an evenweave fabric, begin at a juncture where a vertical thread will be to the right of your needle. In other words, bring your needle from the back of the fabric to the front at point A, as shown in Figure 7. The stitch comes up at A, down at B, up at C, down at D. The next stitch would begin by coming up at C, which becomes your next “A”.

On the second row, work right to left, still making crosses from the bottom left to upper right, and then from the bottom right to upper left. This will ensure that all of your stitches cross the same way. See Figure 8.

figure8.gif
Continue to work row by row, one color at a time.

Filling the Design

If you want the defined color changes of the English method, but don’t want the striped effect, you can achieve that, too. This takes a bit more planning than either of the other options. In addition, it requires breaking the habit of stitching straight across or up and down a design.

You want to achieve the same effect as in pointellism paintings. Rather than stripes of color, you want to create spots of color, which are more easily combined by the viewer’s eye. Alternatively, you can arrange the colors so that they create a more even gradation of color. In the example in Figure 9, I grouped the colored stitches so that the pinks were all in the middle of the petals, surrounded by the more subtle colors in the floss.

figure9.jpg

Grouped colors

The effect in Figure 9 was relatively easy. I threaded my needle with a strand that had little, if any, pink in it. Then I stitched in the English method, around the outline of the petals. In some places I stitched only one stitch at the outside, in others I stitched a bit into the petal itself, for a staggered effect.

Then I threaded the needle with the leftover, pink parts of the floss and filled in the petal centers.

Mottled colors

In Figure 10, I worked for a more mottled effect.

figure10.jpg
To fill the design in this way, you must constantly be aware of where the edges of the motif are located. Because you are not stitching in a traditional methodical manner, it is sometimes easy to get lost.

Start stitching near the top of the design. Work in the English method, but jump around a bit as the thread changes colors instead of stitching rows. For example, you might work 4 or 5 stitches in the area marked with the letter A in Figure 11, then jump over to the area marked with the letter B, work 4 or 5 stitches there, and then move to another area.
Doing this for the entire motif will give you the more mottled, but not striped, image shown in Figure 10.

figure11.gif